Let’s connect two areas of the Northern Peru Circuit. The route between Chachapoyas and Cajamarca is via one of the most spectacular roads in Peru. Between the two cities is the deep (twice as deep as the Grand Canyon) Marañon Canyon. It is unavoidable and unforgettable as well.
My favorite journey direction is from Leymebamba on the Chachapoyas side to Cajamarca. Why? Because this is a journey of sensory overload and by the time one gets to the rolling hills between Celendin and Encañada 30mins before Cajamarca a time of reflection is needed - aka. shut eye.
Leymebamba is at 2200m (7215ft) and the road climbs past the Mummy Museum up to a the lip of the Marañon Canyon at 3615m (11855ft). On a the best days you are here early and a sea of cloud obscures the valley bottom, yet you can see your road ahead some 5 hours driving time at the western side of the Canyon. The total descent to the crossing point is 2800m (9180ft) and you drive by high grassland, cloud forest and dry forest. You will need to be wrapped up warm at the top and ready to speel of layers as you descend. Just above Balsas on the way down is Hornopampa – Oven Plain – well name as here the heat really kicks in.
Balsas is the lowest point of the journey and is where you cross the Marañon via a suspension bridge. This is a great place for a leg stretch and try the roasted in-their-shell peanuts. The drive on the western bank passes many different cacti as it winds up towards the Limon Plain. At Limon you can see the road zigzagging above to the western edge of the canyon – the best stopping point point is before you get to the last hairpin.
Just beyond is the market town of Celendin which is famous for straw hats made and worn there. From there the road twists and turns, gently climbing to a flat pass. The last section from Encañada is particularly beautiful in the afternoon light is a through an agricultural area. A little further and you get the first glimpse of Cajamarca spreading out in the valley below.
Lonely Planet used to say to travel this road was for “die hards” only. It is still a long day, but the road condition has greatly improved and journey times and bumpiness reduced. Vilaya Tours offers the route as one of the ways of accessing or leaving the Chachapoyas area.

PERU HAS A LARGE AMOUNT OF RESOURCES THAT ARE REALLY BEAUTIFUL, AS IS THE CASE
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GOCTA CATARACT
THE MUSEUM OF LEYMEBAMBA, home to OVER 2OO mummy of the Chachapoyas Culture STORAGE IN EXCELLENT CONDITION
MUSEUM LEYMEBAMBA
...... WAITING FOR YOU